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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.